Apart from WoW, the three best MMORPGs I've played at one time or another:
Lord of the Rings Online: A solid MMORPG. It's got all the usual cons - a grind, dumb enemies, an assortment of fetch quests, etc. But it has a great setting, some actual FUN quests and instances, lots of content, and regular updates, and a lot of all around polish. It's a MMORPG, and pretty unapologetic about it, but it is still a very polished one. It is, however, very much PVE oriented. There's PVP, and it's actually pretty unique, but it's definitely not the focus.
Playing as a hobbit was really actually quite fun. I played a "Minstrel", the healer of the game, and adventuring in the Shire was sort of GOOFY. You do quests like DELIVERING MAIL and PIES and defeating swarms of bees. It's still traditional MMORPG fetch/kill bullshit, but there was something lighthearted about it I guess?
I guess there was also an expansion recently too, which was pretty much the size of Blizzard's WoW expansions (re: big!). I believe it added the Mines of Moria and Lothlorien. Unfortunately, I don't think Mordor, Gondor, Rohan, or Isengard are in the game yet.
Warhammer Online: Warhammer Online is really new, just launched in September, and it sort of shows. It's still a bit buggy and rough around the edges, but it's really actually better off than most MMORPGs at launch. The devs seem to be really quick about adding content and hot fixes to the game, having already released a major patch and countless smaller patches/bug fixes. It has some decent, thogh sparse, PVE content, but it's really all about the PVP. You can even level up entirely from PVP, and there are multiple ways of engaging in it - scenarios (think WoW battlegrounds except many more of them and more diverse) and open world stuff like keep sieging and objective capturing. It's a pretty solid timesink.
Ultima Online (lol joke option): No seriously, UO is pretty old and crappy these days I guess, but it was my first MMORPG and I have pretty fond memories of it. I don't know if I can really say if it's any good anymore, I haven't played in years. But few MMORPGs, even today, offer UO's flexibility or dynamic gameplay.
that said, MMORPGs are pretty terrible in general. But consider these king dick of phallus country?